Water Heater Tune-Ups

If we find an anode rod needs replacing or any other problems, we will point out the area of concern and quote a firm price before any work is started. Every water heater installed by NY CITY BOILERS comes with a lifetime labor guarantee of your water heater.

Water Heater Tune-Up which includes:

  • Check drain valve 7
  • Clean out sediment build-up in tank bottom
  • Check anode rod
  • Check vent pipes
  • Check pipe connections
  • Check gas connections for leaks
  • Check safety relief valve

    Rheem 22V50F1 Natural Gas Water Heater - NewYorkCityBoilers.com, 718-373-3030

Water Heater Facts and Frequently Asked Questions

Do you know the major causes of premature tank failure unrecognized or ignored by homeowners?

Why Tanks Fail

Simply put, rusting is what makes steel tanks leak and require  replacement. There are a number of factors which contribute to the  rusting of water heaters. Proper installation, maintenance and  adjustment will almost completely eliminate these factors.

Depleted Anodes
The inside of your tank is protected only as long as the anode rod has  sufficient sacrificial metal remaining on its steel wire core. Inspect  the rod periodically and replace it when needed. Without a functioning  anode in your tank, any other measures are just wasted energy.

Just as magnesium anode rods corrode (purposely) in the presence of steel,  steel will rust (to the detriment of your tank) when it's near to copper or brass. The more of these metals there are, the more the steel tank  will rust. Water heater connections such as hot, cold and re-circulation  loop lines are often made of copper or brass. When they are joined  directly to the tank, excessive rusting occurs at the connections,  restricting water flow and weakening the steel. Dielectric unions and  plastic lined steel nipples have been developed to reduce this  electrolytic corrosion.

Build-Up Heat forces  minerals to come out of solution, forming solids which settle on the  bottom of your tank. This sediment is mostly calcium carbonate. The  harder the water, the more sediment you can expect. When sediment  accumulates in a gas heater, it forms a barrier between the water and  the flame, slowing heat transfer. The subsequent overheating of the tank bottom can cause two problems. First, the glass lining starts  dissolving at temperatures above 160 degrees, so over time, the steel  tank bottom is gradually exposed to water and potential rusting. Second, severe overheating can weaken the metal bottom to the point of  deforming under normal pressure. (Temperatures exceeding 1000 degrees  have been measured at the bottom of severely scaled tanks)! Sediment  causes additional problems. In both gas and electric heaters, a dense  sediment layer can insulate the tank bottom from the protection of the  anode rod. The sediment can also play host to bacteria. Most of these  are not harmful to our health, but they make the environment in the  sediment more corrosive, and the steel is under harsher attack than with heat and sediment alone.

External Environment
Don't  overlook your tank's surroundings. If the air burned in a gas heater is  damp or carries salt, chlorine, or other corrosive chemicals, it will  attack the tank from inside the flue and combustion chamber. It may even void the warranty. Keep your heaters dry. Many tanks have failed  because a plumbing fitting (either on the tank itself or overhead)  leaked and rusted through the drain tank externally. Troublemakers  include the drain valve, heating elements, and hot and cold connections. Even a loose packing nut on an overhead shut-off valve may leak and  ruin a water heater.

Determine Your Heater's Current Status
It's useful to determine the age of your tank before working on it. A  heater's age can guide you to appropriate inspection and maintenance.  For example, if a heater is only a few years old, its likely the anode  rod will still have life in it. However, a heater more than six years  old (or one which is using softened water and is over two years old)  will probably need a new anode. Older heaters are also more likely to  have troubles with a damaged dip tube and more likely to possess  recalcitrant drains. To determine the heater's age look at the serial  number printed or stamped onto the name plate. If it starts 0186 or A86, that means it was made in January of 1986. 0286 or B86 means February  1986. If it starts 8604, that means it was built in the fourth week of  1986. If the serial number simply does not make sense with these  guidelines, look for "warranty" on the name tag; the A86 or other code  may be found there. If none of this leads you to a date, proceed with  servicing the unit. It probably needs it.

American Water Heaters - NewYorkCityBoilersInc.com - 718-373-3030


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